My friend Parvez Damania, and his friend Ratan Luth, host a grand Parsi Bhonu at the start of February each year to which they graciously invite a sizeable chunk of Mumbai’s literati and glitterati, myself included. Among them are artistes from the worlds of theatre, music, the fine arts, a film star or two, some politicians, the top brass of the Mumbai Police, hoteliers and restaurateurs, advertising gurus, captains of industry, socialites and celebs, media persons. All of whom without exception are hearty foodies. I haven’t ever figured out what the Bhonu is for. It isn’t for a Lagan or a Navjote. But I suppose bon vivants like Parvez and Ratan don’t need an occasion to celebrate. They celebrate life. Which all Parsis gregariously do. An elegant WhatsApp invite sent out well in advance by the two gents summoned the chosen few to “a delightful evening featuring a formal Parsi sit-down dinner in the grand old style of a feast unique to the community that takes special joy in its cuisine”. I understand those that received the invite got into serious training weeks earlier to build up an appetite for the Bhonu.
It was at Saher Agiary last Saturday evening. The road leading to it from opposite Breach Candy Hospital is uphill, narrow, and twisting and was packed tight with cars of people invited to the Bhonu. I had to walk up. I could hear the live band playing, see the fairy lights in the trees, and smell the food long before I reached the Agiary. I think among all of Mumbai’s picturesque Agiaries, Saher is one of the prettiest. Second only to the Seth Jeejeebhoy Dadabhoy Agiary in Colaba at the edge of the Arabian Sea. My hosts were at the gate. Suited and booted (no Dagli this time). Welcoming guests. Keeping out the gatecrashers. I wasted no time in greeting them. A party was in full swing. With small crowds gathered around the bars. There were two. One stocked with fine wines and the choicest alcohols for serious drinkers. The other serves exotic Mocktails for teetotalers. I got myself a ‘Chanto Pani’ and spotted the Saher Agiary Dasturji watching the show from a high window above the bar. He won’t join the party. But a patru with the Bhonu is reverentially sent up to his residence.
My friend Tanaz Godiwala, Parsi Lagan and Navjote caterer supreme was the High Priestess of the Bhonu. Just the sight of Tanaz moving among the tables, supervising the bearers staggering out from her kitchen with trays of food, is enough to reassure the invited that they are in for the mother-of-all Parsi dinners. It was that way on Saturday. At first, the Saria and Achar plonked on the patru. Then the man with colas and ice. The choice was between Raspberry, Mango, Lime, and Ginger. Most Parsis loyally pick the Raspberry. Sali Marghi and thin Rotlis, Patra Ni Machi (with Tanaz generously asking if I preferred Fried Fish instead), Tatreli Kolmi, Bharuchi Akuri swimming in Ghee, floating with Dry Fruits, and Lagan Nu Custard. Breaking tradition, a Mutton Dhansak with Kebabs was also served, the meat being tender Kid Gosht, falling off the bone. For the vegetarians, there was a Thali. I felt sorry for them. And then a surprise. Tanaz Godiwala’s new signature dessert. It’s called Indian Sundae. Kulfi Falooda mixed with Gajjar Halwa and Gulab Jamun. I have never had it before. But then I have never been to a Parsi Bhonu like the ones Parvez and Ratan host.
About Mark Manuel
The above thoughts/content has been proudly copied from the wall of Sir Mark Manuel. Being interviewing almost every role model of this country and going stronger each day. Mark Manuel is a respected Mumbai editor, writer, and columnist.
With over three decades of journalism in leading publications. This includes the Free Press Journal, Times, Dainik Bhaskar, Mid-Day, and Afternoon. He is famous for his brilliant pen interviews. He himself is a TEDx speaker.
Further
His interviews have been featured in several leading media houses. They include the Hindustan Times, Huffington Post, BBC, and Network 18. Almost every famous person has been interviewed by him in the country from Mother Teresa to Muhammad Ali. His first book is just out. It’s titled Moryaa Re! It is a crime thriller that is perhaps the country’s first police procedural. He began his career covering crime. And in a tribute to his experience and knowledge of this beat.
Several distinguished officers of the Mumbai Police and its Crime Branch collaborated with him to make this book possible. Amitabh Bachchan wrote the forward in a statement of friendship for Mark Manuel and admiration for his work.
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